Thursday, 15 July, 2021
Wines of South Africa, Malu Lambert
While recently exploring the windswept Agulhas Wine Triangle, the southernmost wine region in Africa, I happened upon the mesmerising wines of Pierre Rabie. His range The Giant Periwinkle began as a garagiste concern with Rabie juggling his commitments as an advocate practicing in Cape Town, while making the wines in various rented spaces using Agulhas fruit.
Though still practicing law he has now established a home for the brand in partnership with friends Karen van Helden and Robert Stelzner, who purchased a small farm just outside of Baardskeerdersbos, nearby to Elim with three-hectares of vineyards, a cellar and tasting room.
Walking up to the latter on my trip there, the A-frame building was all white angles pointing to the sky, it seemed to be made of paper – light but acute, a physical manifestation of Rabie’s approach to winemaking. He’s not only learnt to embrace the high natural acidities of the area’s fruit, but he also uses the acid as a structural component. He’s an architect of light.
The approach in the cellar is non-interventionist, a hands-off philosophy that allows the singular nature of this salt-and-sun drenched terroir to shine emphatically through in the wines, his Sauvignon Blancs in particular.
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