Winemakers and yeast producers have gone to great lengths to ensure the grape’s fruit is enhanced in the wine, usually aided by cold fermentation in stainless steel. Delicious young, the wines are often one-dimensional, that joyous fruit soon fading.
Ideas and wine never stand still. Today, joyous fruit is yielding to wines with texture, flavour and greater dimension.
Peter-Allan Finlayson’s original idea of fermenting Sauvignon Blanc in a Yogi de Beer clay amphora was to add a textural component to Gabrielskloof Magdalena blend with Semillon; the end result so excited him, the wine was bottled alone under the Amphora name. ‘The amphora is unlined so porous, meaning there’s some micro-oxidation, less than new oak, more than stainless steel,’ Peter-Allan explains. The lees staying in suspension for longer than other vessels also influence texture, something he believes is relevant in our warmer climate as this and tannin can add freshness and vigour.
Craig Wessels of Restless River has a simple philosophy to the single vineyard, Ava Marie Chardonnay: each vintage should be a true expression of this vineyard … texture plays a key role in this, as does clay. Around 10-15% of Ava Marie is fermented and matured in 450L terracotta amphora, hand made from Tuscan Galestro clay. Craig describes the oval shape as contributing ‘positively to textural qualities derived from lees and their natural circulation during fermentation, as well as micro-oxygenation during ageing; both build a fuller, more dense mid-palate texture.’ Oak, mostly older up to 10 years, is used for the balance of the wine. ‘It brings an array of magnificent textures and subtle flavours, while still respecting the site’ Craig concludes.
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