Chenin Blanc: some reflections

Discussing different varieties with a friend who sells a lot of South African wine in the UK, the conversation turned, as it frequently does, to Chenin Blanc and why it’s a leader in individuality and quality. ‘Maybe,’ my friend suggested, ‘Chenin is so far ahead because the producers own the style; in some other varieties, it’s a copy cat game.’

Chenin producers are spread across the winelands; there’s not one region where Chenin isn’t grown, a good reason for the collective sharing of pride in the variety. It’s taken time. Until the mid-1990s, Chenin had an image of being cheap and cheerful quaffing wine.

The enthusiasm of a few producers, encouragement from visiting MWs, inauguration of a Chenin Blanc competition by the-then Wine Magazine,  founding of the Chenin Blanc Association and South Africa’s re-entry into the international market all contributed to jump-start what is now a roller-coaster of attention on the variety. If South Africa continues to lead the way in the non-traditional world, the Loire remains the classic benchmark.

The pace of improvement has been remarkable.

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