Maestro and maverick: Günter Brözel wins Tim Atkin MW's Winemaking Legend award

Tuesday, 10 September, 2024
Bennie Howard
Tim Atkin MW honoured Günter Brözel with the Winemaking Legend award on 2 September at the launch of his 2024 South Africa Special Report.

Günter Brözel was the cellarmaster at Nederburg from 1956 to 1989. A maverick, he is known for his exceptionally high standards. Thereafter he joined Neethlingshof for 10 years, where he was instrumental in the successful reconstruction of the Neethlingshof and Stellenzicht wineries. He then "semi-retired" and till today is still a legend who stays in touch with industry matters. He celebrated his 90th birthday earlier this year.

Günter Brözel was born in Germany and was a graduate of the State Teaching and Research Institute for Viticulture and Fruit Growing in Weinsberg (Württemberg). His first choice was to study music, but he followed in his father’s footsteps and qualified as a cooper before studying wine. However, his love for music stayed and he could play the piano and church organ like a maestro through the years. He was also a member of the famous German Choir in Paarl.

In 1956, the then owner of the Nederburg in Paarl, Johann Georg Graue (a German viticulturist, brewer and tea specialist who bought Nederburg in 1937) hired him as technical girector after the death of his son in a plane crash in 1955 at Youngsfield, Cape Town. After Johann Graue's death in 1959, Günter took over the business. Günter established the global reputation of this winery, working there for 33 years until 1989. He then retired and handed over the reins of Nederburg cellarmaster to Newald Marais, a talented winemaker who has been working alongside Günter since 1976.

Günter played a leading role in building Nederburg’s reputation as the most awarded winery in South Africa. He is a tue icon in South African winemaking.

A maven and a maverick, he is known for his exceptionally high standards. Getting around on a 250cc BSA motorcycle, he checked on everyone and everything to ensure his exacting demands were met. He was a pioneer in all aspects, introducing many important improvements to vineyard management and winemaking techniques, later adopted by others.

In 1985, he became the first winemaker in South Africa to earn the Robert Mondavi International Winemaker of the Year Trophy at the International Wine and Spirits Competition.

He was a great pioneer and created the first South African noble late harvest wine, Edelkeur, in 1966. It was launched at the first Nederburg Auction in 1975 and sold exclusively at the auction. The renowned Edelkeurwine made from botrytised Chenin blanc was intended to rival the famous Sauterne, Tokaij and Trockenbeerenauslese wines, and has earned Nederburg considerable international kudos over the years. He also brought about a change in the law which was amended to recognise this new category of wine.

Günter was also one of the initiators of the Nederburg Wine Auction.

He won the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year award twice, in 1983 and 1985.

On 2 February 1986, he was honoured by KWV with the KWV Vintage Commemorative Scroll.

In 2009 he was one of the first recipients of the Living Legends Scroll of the South African Wine Industry at the Veritas Awards gala dinner.

The 1982 vintage of Nederburg Auction Cabernet Sauvignon – in magnums – was served at the inauguration of President Nelson Mandela in 1994. President Mandela was also very fond of Nederburg Edelkeur and he was presented with a case of this golden nectar every year on his birthday.

The famous Robert Mondavi hailed the 1974 Nederburg Auction Cabernet Sauvignon – rated by many people as one of the best Cabs from SA from the previous century – as one of his best ten red wines that he tasted in his career when he was guest speaker at the Nederburg Auction in 1992. Decanter has called the 1974 wine a legend and recounts that when iconic US winemaker Robert Mondavi tasted it in 1992, he exclaimed: "Rapture! ….Still fresh and juicy with lovely structure….Long and lingering finish. Magnificent!"

Emile Joubert, wine writer paid this tribute in an article in 2023 when Nederburg Baronne turned 50 years old:

"And 50 years later, the Baronne legend lives on. I just hope the South African wine industry is doing enough to ensure that the legacy of our great wine pioneers, such as Maestro Brözel, also remain intact and are given the respect and the place in history they deserve."