Pinotage: Legacy in a bottle

Monday, 27 January, 2025
Lucille Botha
Originating in South Africa, Pinotage is a unique variety that has become a major asset for the wine industry over the last century helping to enhance South Africa’s reputation as a notable wine-producing nation.

Professor Abraham Izak Perold likely never anticipated the profound influence he would have on the South African wine scene when he crossed Pinot Noir with Cinsaut (Hermitage) a century ago, giving birth to the South African grape variety known as Pinotage. Unfortunately, he never got to taste the wine produced from this marriage, but it’s generally accepted that the South African wine landscape would be significantly poorer without Pinotage.

Originating in South Africa, Pinotage is a unique variety that has become a major asset for the wine industry over the last century. Many renowned producers positioned their brands around Pinotage, establishing their reputations through this distinctive grape. Cape Wine Master Mark Philp reflects: “Without Pinotage, a variety that is certainly something of our own, wherewould we hang our hat? I have no idea!”

Pinotage plays a crucial role in shaping the industry, helping to enhance South Africa’s reputation as a notable wine-producing nation. Rico Basson, CEO of South Africa Wine, adds: “Although Pinotage is not the only variety we work with, it certainly stands out as something special and one of a kind. ”Pinotage truly has it all: it produces high-yielding, quality grapes that result in outstanding wines crafted in a variety of styles, all with remarkable ageing potential. When local and international tourists visit South African wineries, Pinotage is often at the top of their list, as they seek to taste something uniquely tied to the country.

“It’s like a little hook,” shares Siobhan Thompson, CEO of Wines of South Africa (WoSA). “When you mention Pinotage, people immediately think of South Africa. It is a great conversation starter and a key selling point for South Africa. The versatility of Pinotage shines through in its many forms, including blanc de noir, rosé, Cap Classique, robust wines perfect for ageing,and fruitier options, not to mention the notable Cape blend. As more consumers become familiar with it, Pinotage is gaining traction in established markets, but the real excitement lies in its potential in emerging markets like China, Africa, and the USA.”

Although it has been around for a century, Pinotage was first bottled in 1959 from Bellevue grapes after winning the General Smuts Trophy at the National Young Wine Show. It debuted in 1961 under the Lanzerac label by Stellenbosch Farmers Winery. Throughout its relatively short history, Pinotage has faced challenges as producers learned to master the grape in both the vineyard and cellar. Today, the quality of Pinotage is undeniable, and there are plenty of reasons to be optimistic about its future.

“We have world-class wines that are Pinotage, not only world-class Pinotage. Nowadays, there’s a noticeable fine wine aspect within this category, and we should embrace a more premium approach with confidence, says Edo Heyns, CEO of Allée Bleue.

A new generation of winemakers is doing a superb job of taking over the baton from the pioneers. It’s no surprise that Pinotage has gained popularity among wine enthusiasts, as innovative winemakers truly understand the grape’s unique qualities and maximise its potential. The new wave of winemakers concentrates on remarkable single vineyards, higher altitudes, and small pockets of distinctive soils to create excellent Pinotage wines. “The more Pinotages entering the market at the current level of quality, the more the category will flourish,” Mark believes.

When discussing Pinotage, one cannot overlook the importance of the Cape blend. Emerging in the early 1990s, this category has the potential to become a notable part of South African wine, with some even claiming it can achieve the same level of acclaim as Châteuneuf-du-Pape.

Jacques Roux, a wine marketing consultant who was instrumental in the development of the Cape blend, is convinced Pinotage plays a huge role in the growth of South Africa’s red blend category, which currently boasts the highest export figures in the country. “The flavours in Pinotage can blend seamlessly with various varieties, enhancing the overall experience in the glass.”

Pinotage ranks as the third most widely planted red wine variety in South Africa. While overall vine plantings are on the decline, the area dedicated to Pinotage is on the rise. Its versatility, good yields, and above-average pricing speak for themselves when producer profitability comes to mind. Beyers Truter from Beyerskloof attributes this success to Perold’s insightful choice of Pinotage’s parent varieties. “He selected Pinot Noir and Cinsaut based on his extensive knowledge of our industry and regions. He recognised that these varieties were not only high-yielding but also resistant to diseases, adding remarkable value to the sector.”

As a robust variety that withstands heat and drought, Pinotage is equipped to tackle the challenges posed by climate change. Pinotage ripens during the cooler days of summer and is typically harvested early in the season. This early ripening allows Pinotage to maintain its acidity and fruity essence while avoiding common seasonal issues like rain, sunburn, or excessive heat, according to Johan Malan, proprietor of Simonsig Family Vineyards.

The push for quality and premiumisation received noteworthy support from the Pinotage Association, which invested in research focused on clones, vineyard management, and winemaking techniques. Initiatives like the Absa Top 10 competition have raised awareness about the high quality of Pinotage wines, leading to an increase in their market value. “Pinotage is now selling for prices exceeding R500 and R1000 per bottle. Even the bulk wine price is amongst the highest. This is directly linked to the quality of the wines, and Pinotage can rightfully be seen as one of the crown jewels,” states Beyers, who has been honoured as Best Winemaker in the World at the International Wine and Spirit Competition.

The movement towards premiumisation is gaining momentum, highlighted by initiatives like Grand Pinotage and efforts to explore and articulate the regional characteristics of Pinotage. Many of the demo blocks in Vinpro’s Gen-Z vineyard project feature Pinotage. “It is thrilling to witness the evolution of Pinotage for the future,” says Rico.

Johan emphasises that the true worth of Pinotage lies in its remarkable ability to age gracefully, likely due to its strong lineage, as it shares similar intrinsic traits with Pinot Noir. “In the 1980s, we discovered how well Pinotage matures, which reinforced our belief and confidence in the variety. I would’ve loved to have more old Pinotage wines to showcase, as it will settle all arguments.”

As Siobhan says: “Pinotage is woven into our history and has contributed to South Africa’s global reputation, so it’s essential that we safeguard it.” By nurturing this valuable resource and building upon it, Pinotage is set to create a legacy for future generations.

As Pinotage turns 100, and most celebrations set for Pinotage Month, how will you celebrate this distinctly South African varietal? Share your plans to honor a century of Pinotage – from opening a vintage bottle to exploring new blends or visiting wineries. Let’s toast to the legacy of Pinotage and its bright future!

For more information contact the Pinotage Association: