Today, there are many new wine Ambassadors reminding themselves of past glories realised with native grapes that have not always enjoyed pedestal position, in the Italian wine scene, for various reasons.They are now valiantly stepping in to revive these glories. The atmosphere is vibrant with change but more importantly we are seeing, currently, an injection of personality traits in both the vineyards and cellar that are trajecting positive growth and innovative changes which are gaining traction with the thirsty Millennium brigade looking for new poetry in wine.
Although growing vines on an active volcano is not for the foolhardy but best left to the bravado of the purposeful and visionary the wine growing culture on Etna’s slopes in the last 25 years, or so, is growing and is certainly passing from ancient obscurity to modern limelight.
It is ironical that in the current on-going wine Renaissance in Sicily, and in particular Etna, what we have emerging are “ ‘new’ wines made from ‘old’ grape varieties” [credit Ian D’Agata Native Wine Grapes of Italy ] by a ‘new’ generation of enterprising investors who are ready to harness the profound truths and wisdom from the ‘old’ generation.
In Etna there is a new vineyard story book in the making with steadfast producers and rising stars not afraid to pump in significant monetary investment in order to raise the bar with structured elegant, mineral driven wines – still, sparkling and Rosato - from red native grapes Nerello Mascalese & Nerello Cappuccio plus vibrant singular whites from Carricante & Catarratto - Etna being the spiritual home for these grapes.
Mt Etna’s professional wine-growing community stagnated between WWII and 1981 due to the high cost of growing grapes in such extreme terrain and climate coupled with eruptions in 1981/1991/2 as this volcano is still an active cauldron. However, Mother Nature has bestowed on Etna almost magical poetry which has attracted investors like Palmento Costanzo on which this feature concentrates.
REALISING THE CHALLENGES, WEALTH AND DIVERSITY OF ETNA
Besides being a dramatic regenerative force of nature the untamed and exuberant character of Etna – a UNESCO World Heritage site - presents with a volcanic melting pot that is rich in minerals. The different origins of the soil substrates borne out of capricious lava flows during eruptions and also, importantly, the compositions created during the cooling period retrospectively: ash, sand, gravel, powder and rock all contribute to creating myriad terroirs bestowing uniquely different characteristics to each wine. Etna’s commanding height - 3300 meters above the sea – has created another dynamic environment for “cool-climate” wines. It shows dramatic seasonal variances in temperature, covered in snow during the Winter and in Summer mid-level temperatures are still cool with the Northern Etna side being at least 15 degrees Centigrade lower than Coastal areas thus accenting dazzling wines bestowed with elegant vibrant profiles. Wide diurnal swings combined with the light on Etna which is diffused, indirectly bouncing between the sky and two surrounding seas, add a further magical touch. Effectively Etna is Sicily’s only cool climate region.
The wine designation for Mount Etna Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) was established in August 1968, one of the first in Sicily. The Etna DOC is approximately 2,350 acres (950 hectares) in size and home to just under 300 wine producers.
Sicily is no longer branded as a bulk wine producer of mediocre blending wine but now recognized as standout producer largely due to a successful ongoing inward investment renaissance attracting a new “producer gold rush “. This includes investment from both Italian winemakers from other areas – like Tuscany and the North [Andrea Franchetti] and overseas interest [Frank Cornelissen from Belgium] as well as more significantly the return of Etna’s younger generation to old established family vineyards. [Benanti and Barone de Villagrande]. Not shy to break nugatory conventions many are honing into wines made with typicity rather than flamboyance.
In addition to its range of soil types and microclimates, another significant aberration is that the dreaded phylloxera root louse did not invade the vineyards of Etna due to the sandy composition of the thin volcanic soils, unlike the decimation suffered in majority of European vineyards in the late 19th Century. Scientific analysis has identified vines that are now 150 years old which remain ungrafted but are still in production, certainly, a legacy of an authentic terroir that needs to be meticulously protected by the current custodians of the land.
In a recent deep dive field and press trip arranged by VIA and Taormina Gourmet we were privileged to explore in depth developments in the area with visits to numerous established and nascent producers.What clearly emerged was that embedded in the DNA of most producers is a deep respect for land preservation defined by environmental stability and the wise use of viticultural techniques in order to keep the soul of native grapes alive.
GLORIES OF PALMENTO COSTANZO
One particular production site and vineyard stood out for me: Palmento Costanzo. It is one of the most visited Etna wineries for tastings. Initiated by husband and wife duo Dominico Costanzo and Valeria Agosta from Catania in 2011 their unique “Palmento”, Cellar, hospitality centre and tasting room plus terraced vineyards have been created and nurtured with expressions of rare excellence and with an informed sense of innovation. In less than a decade they haveinterpreted the extraordinary context of the complex volcano with inherent pride and strategic vision.
Palmento Costanzo is an Etna Winery inside the Natural Park of Mount Etna on the northern slopes, located in Contrada Santo Spirito, in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia, 37 ° 52 ’00 “N – 15 ° 01′ 41” E (the geographical coordinates of the estate that you will find on some of their labels). Aesthetically, not the most elegant looking buildings grace from afar,butdo not be deceived because a treasure trove of diverse elements on site will seduce and impress most significantly. Our visit commenced on a lively note with an introduction by the passionate, informed and delightful Proprietor Ms Valeria Agosta who welcomed us graciously with modest grace. May her small frame and ready smile not deceive for she is surely empowered with deeply held agrarian convictions and is a walking encyclopedia of all things viti and vini-cultural related, not forgetting the stylish touches she has bestowed on the new cellars and Palmento cleverly referencing tradition and design at every level.
Palmento Costanzo is a meticulously planned and carefully executed project as passionately defined by Valeria.Loosely translated the Palmento name relates to the 19th Century olive millstone press facility - an ancient 100+ year old stone press house is now restored and takes pride of place in the gravity fed plant. The sleek modern cellar and maturation facility attached are designed in a format honouring bio-architectural principles that cleverly optimize thermal and lighting optics thus minimizing environmental energy impacts. Other modern design techniques are at play in the magnificent cathedral height new build glass floored cellar including multi substrate lava walled, natural light streaming cone enhanced cut-outs. However, one of the most impressive features is a row of atypical, but sexy, Ovumegg shaped French oak fermentation and storage vessels based on the golden ratio principle, capacity 2000 litres, hoop-free and sitting on their own wooden bases. Despite the exceptionally high price [+/- Euro 30 000] they have the design advantage of allowing for natural internal convection of lees without the need for physical battonage.
Passion for this land directs every part of the company philosophy as is the output of natural wines produced from and area of 14 hectares – sub-sectioned into 4 smaller plots - up to 800 meters in elevation in the Santo Spirito Cru. Vines are planted within stone walled terraces on volcanic rock soils. There are vineyards of all ages, from 5 to 100 years old, and some even pre-phylloxera. The vineyards are planted employing the ‘gobelet' head trained pruning system supported by Chestnut stakes and importantly, now, farmed organically and with close adherence to strict environmental practices. The 2017’s are certified organic; vineyards are hand cultivated and the cellar technology ultra-modern. The wines of Palmento Costanzo are divided according to the age of the vines: those 10 to 30 years and those 30 to more than 120 years, some of which, as mentioned, are pre-phylloxera and ungrafted.
Every detail at Palmento Costanzo is perfectly orchestrated with the property being a great backdrop to the excellent wines they produce. Wine-wise the labels come from native grapes Nerello Mescalese and Nerello Cappuccio, Carricante and Catarratto. The designated Contrada* [highest Cru] for the area is Santo Spirito and the wines fall underthe DOC Etna denomination under categories Contrada Santo Spirito, then the Di Seiline made from alberelli vines aged between 80 and 120 years followed by a younger expression of vines– 5 to 30 years - labelled Mofete. All Palmento Costanzo wines are produced are labeled with the expression of Controlled Denomination of Origin Etna (D.O.C. Etna) and certified organic.
The hospitality centre and restaurant are equally far from ordinary boasting a fine dining table with host Chefs from the illustrious Relais and Chateaux Locanda Don Serafino restaurantlocated further South in Ragusa Ibla.
Immersed in the true spirit of Etna this was an outstanding visit that will remain etched in my mind as an ultimate experience in a destination. These properties on Etna are a bit like Bitcoin finding their own narrative as digital Gold but in this instance liquid Gold.
* Contrade(singular: Contrada) are territorial sub-divisions [based on old feudal demarcations as laid out in the local land registry] representing Etna’s own version of a Cru or Burgundian climat, bringing a typical recognizable flavour to its wines. The growing trend after 2000 of isolating vineyards to produce “contrada wines” [effectively single vineyard wines] was a stroke of genius by initiator Andrea Franchetti already with successful operations in Tuscany [Tenuta di Trinoro]. Nuances of terroir representation are due to the ever changing environment of a highly active volcano with the eruptions, spills and variables : soil minerals, grain size [sand , gravel, powder and rock], altitude , individual lava flows and irregular aspects. The land’s geological history shapes the different Contrade. The arrival of many new determined producers from 2000 has seen a recognisable elevation in each Contrada where different volcanic substrates vary from one vineyard to another. It’s an idea in Italy that is younger than it is in France.