The sun-drenched vineyards of Jerez produce some of Spain’s most famous wines. Here, the low-lying Palomino, Pedro Ximenez (PX), and Moscatel grapevines thrive in the region’s white albariza soils and hot climate, where agronomists like Gonzalez Byass vineyard director Manuel Delgado aim to achieve the best harvest each year. For him, these three varieties are the hallmark of sherry production, particularly the Palomino grape, which accounts for some 90 percent of his production.
”Palomino is very adapted to our climate with good disease resistance and it can withstand heat and drought,” says Delgado. “If I had to choose a second variety, I would take PX—despite lower yields, it has potential in hot, dry conditions.”
Yet change is afoot in this traditional winegrowing region, with new regulations expanding the available options to producers. In 2022, the Consejo Regulador permitted more native grape varieties that had nearly faded from memory, including Beba, Cañocazo, Mantúo Castellano, Mantúo de Pilas, Perruno, and Vigiriega.
By sanctioning these long-forgotten varieties, the Consejo hopes to promote diversity and innovation. The vines, so well-adapted to Jerez’s hot, harsh conditions, offer potential if given a chance to shine. Though new grapes may play only a small role, their approval signifies gradual evolution in this historic region.
But Jerez is not alone in its permittance of new grape varieties. In Bordeaux, producers have embarked on a project to study and introduce new varieties, including Marselan, Arinarnoa, Touriga Nacional, Castets, Alvarinho, and Liliorila. And in Champagne, the hybrid grape Voltis was approved, overturning the ban on hybrids in French wine. These expanded varieties were officially approved in 2021 as part of the Varieties of Interest for Climate Adaptation (VIFA) Initiative by France’s National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO), according to Cécile Ha of the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin du Bordeaux.
For centuries, many of the world’s most prestigious wine regions have strictly limited grape varieties permitted for use in production. But faced with the growing challenges of climate change and consumer demand, several regions are buckling under pressure to allow a wider range of varieties into their hallowed vineyards. Some innovators have dipped their toes in experimenting with these newer options; others are cautious, remaining tentative until more time and exploration can be achieved. It begs the question: How will these newly approved varieties really impact classic regions like Jerez, Bordeaux, and Champagne?
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