Early mornings I would buy the newspaper and R5 Styrofoam-cup-of-tea and head up to Café Go (whose tea I couldn’t afford) to wait for the day’s classes to start. Peter-Allan would be there as well, sans tea but with newspaper, portraying a very academic air. So academic, in fact, that I thought him to be my history lecturer. Turns out Peter-Allan was not my lecturer, read economics and philosophy at university and prefers to make wine. We should all be bloody thankful that he decided to heed the call of the vine, as we would have missed out on some mighty fine wine otherwise.
Peter-Allan is winemaker at Gabriëlskloof, where he produces an elegant range of wines that encapsulates the Botriver winegrowing area. He is married to the lovely Nicolene Finlayson, née Heyns, who runs the creative side of Gabriëlskloof, which is the Heyns’ family business. His side project, the Crystallum range he heads up with brother, Andrew, is where you can sense his hand best. Consistently lauded as one of the best Pinot winemakers in South Africa, Peter-Allan has managed in barely a decade or so, to cement himself firmly as a force to be reckoned with when it comes to the prudently dubbed heartbreak grape. I suggest you get your hands on some Crystallum - it is quickly gaining cult status.
What vintage are you?
1981
If you could bottle yourself, what would the tasting note be?
The bouquet would be earthy with a touch of reduction and some sweet fruit. The palate is full bodied but wants to be lighter, there is a strong salty edge to the wine and the finish is long and hairy.
What sparked your love for food & the drink?
I grew up in the industry and while this planted the seeds, it was a visit to Burgundy and Priorat in 2007 where it all fell into place.
Aliens come down from space and you must explain to them in one bottle of wine what it is that you do – what do you make?
It depends on whether they are peace loving Aliens - then a Hemel en Aarde Ridge Pinot Noir, if not, then a very ripe Merlot.
What is still on your wine bucket list?
So many vintages of top Burgundy, and while it may not be that hip at the moment, I would love to taste older Bordeaux’s.
What makes a wine fine?
A fine vineyard.
What do you rate as your proudest achievement?
Marriage.
What is a big no-no to you when it comes to making wine?
Trying to derive flavour and character through additions. This should come from the vineyard
What would you like to achieve over the next 15 years?
Travel more, surf more and be a better husband.
Who or what is your idea of oenological brilliance?
I’m not a fan of wines where winemaking has played too big of a role.
Where are you happiest?
Under water.
Biggest vice?
Many - wine, chocolate, coffee, ice-cream, whiskey, cashew nuts.
What are the biggest challenges we face in the South African wine industry? Where would you like to see us go and grow over the next ten years?
There are huge challenges faced by the wine industry as there are for the country. We are an incredibly unequal society and for this to change we need to create jobs and sustainable businesses and the wine industry is no different.
It is Prohibition in South Africa. You can save one bottle of wine from your collection – what do you choose?
A magnum of Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2005
What is your favourite food and wine memory?
Eating pasta with freshly shaved white truffle flakes in Barolo, drinking Barolo.
Who would you invite to your dream dinner party? What would you cook and why?
The Springboks - I’d cook them a pot of toughen the f%£&k up.
What constitutes to a great cellar playlist?
The playlist will have different functions depending on the time of day. Morning needs to be something cheerful and cheesy - The Beach Boys is a good option. Mid-morning can be a little more chilled, War on Drugs, Bon Iver, Future Islands. Afternoon is when u need something to get the energy levels up, so LCD Soundsystem, TV on the Radio or Tame Impala. Evening can go either way depending on how tough the week has been, so if it’s been a heavy one maybe Nick Cave or The National.
What is the best and worst thing about working in the wine industry?
Best thing would be the great people in the industry. Worst thing would be the shitty people.
Looking back, what advice would you give your 21-year-old self?
Don’t spend so much time in bars chasing girls, go to your lectures and finish your studying so you can travel more. Don’t be an asshole.